Florence for medievalists

Medici Florence is everywhere to be seen, and the focus of all the guidebooks, but here's my pick of medieval Florence.

San Giovanni (The Baptistery of St. John)
Yes, it's in all the guide books, but this is a plea not to miss some of the most spectacular mosaics outside of Ravenna. It was one of the few times I have had a profound spiritual experience through art.

Davanzati Palace
An intact 14th century house, restored with mostly period furniture. Absolutely fascinating. Don't miss the graffitti and the bathrooms. It gives a concrete idea of how a house built around a courtyard really worked. Opening times may vary, so check first. Also, some floors open later than others. There is little by way of labelling, and no guidebook when we went in 2008, but we found that the curator was more than happy to give us a detailed tour.

San Miniato al Monte
Climb past the stations of the cross to this church built in the eleventh century. It still has its medieval mosaic floor, similar to that of the Baptistery. Come towards the end of the afternoon and stay for evensong in Gregorian chant, sung in the crypt by the Dominican monks who now reside here.

Casa di Dante
OK, so it's only a replica of a late medieval house where Dante's home used to stand, but it's chock full of information on Dante's Florence and gives some idea of a middle class home of the period. Down the alley, stop to pay respects at the Church of Beatrice.

Santa Margherita dei Cerchi
Beatrice's nurse is definitely buried here, and there's a supposed tomb of the lady herself. A shrine if you are a Dante lover or just lovelorn.

Orsanmichele
This gothic oratory was once a covered market; when converted in 1337, the upstairs remained a granary! The exterior is interesting for the sculptures (many now copies) of figures representing Florence's guilds; inside, there is a 14th century Madonna by Bernado Daddi. I've made two trips to Florence, and, alas, the granary was closed each time, but if you're lucky, access is via the Palagio dell'Arte della Lana opposite the entrance.

Selected Bibliography

Here are the best books I've found for giving you an idea of life in medieval Florence and Italy in general.

Daniel E Bornstein (trans)- Dino Compagni's Chronicle of Florence (University of Pennsylvania P., 1986). A fascinating contemporary account of the period.

Gene Brucker - Florence: The Golden Age (University of California P., 1998)

Chiara Frugoni - A Day in a Medieval City (University of Chicago P., 2005)

Chiara Frugoni - Inventions of the Middle Ages (Columbia University P., 2003)

Annamaria Giusti - The Baptistery of San Giovanni in Florence (Mandragora P., 2000). A complete guide to the history and architecture of the Baptistery, packed with color photographs.